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"People refer to this spot an enigmatic zone of Transylvania," remarks an experienced guide, the air from his lungs producing wisps of mist in the cold evening air. "Countless visitors have disappeared here, many believe there's a gateway to a parallel world." The guide is escorting a visitor on a evening stroll through what is often described as the globe's spookiest grove: Hoia-Baciu, an area covering one square mile of primeval local woods on the outskirts of the Transylvanian city of Cluj-Napoca.

A Long History of the Unexplained

Stories of unusual events here go back a long time – the grove is called after a regional herder who is believed to have disappeared in the far-off times, accompanied by his entire flock. But Hoia-Baciu achieved international attention in 1968, when an army specialist named Emil Barnea captured on film what he reported as a unidentified flying object floating above a round opening in the heart of the forest.

Many came in here and failed to return. But don't worry," he adds, addressing the visitor with a smile. "Our guided walks have a perfect safety record."

In the decades since, Hoia-Baciu has attracted yoga practitioners, spiritual healers, UFO researchers and supernatural researchers from worldwide, curious to experience the strange energies believed to resonate through the forest.

Contemporary Dangers

Although it is one of the world's premier destinations for lovers of the paranormal, this woodland is facing danger. The western suburbs of Cluj-Napoca – a modern tech hub of over 400,000 residents, known as the tech capital of the region – are expanding, and construction companies are campaigning for approval to remove the forest to construct residential buildings.

Barring a limited section containing locally rare oak varieties, this woodland is without conservation status, but the guide is confident that the company he co-founded – the Hoia-Baciu Project – will help to change that, motivating the government officials to recognise the forest's significance as a tourist attraction.

Spooky Experiences

As twigs and autumn leaves split and rustle beneath their boots, the guide describes various traditional stories and reported ghostly incidents here.

• One famous story tells of a young child disappearing during a group gathering, then to return five years later with complete amnesia of what had happened, showing no signs of aging a moment, her garments shy of the tiniest bit of dust.
• Regular stories explain cellphones and photography gear unexpectedly failing on venturing inside.
• Feelings range from full-blown dread to feelings of joy.
• Some people claim seeing unusual marks on their arms, perceiving unseen murmurs through the forest, or sense hands grabbing them, although certain nobody is nearby.

Research Efforts

Although numerous of the stories may be unverifiable, there is much visibly present that is undeniably strange. Throughout the area are trees whose bases are curved and contorted into fantastical shapes.

Different theories have been suggested to explain the abnormal growth: strong gales could have bent the saplings, or naturally high radiation levels in the ground explain their crooked growth.

But scientific investigations have turned up no satisfactory evidence.

The Notorious Meadow

Marius's excursions allow visitors to take part in a little scientific inquiry of their own. As we approach the clearing in the woods where Barnea photographed his renowned UFO photographs, he gives the traveler an EMF meter which registers energy patterns.

"We're stepping into the most energetic area of the forest," he states. "Discover what's here."

The vegetation abruptly end as we emerge into a complete ring. The sole vegetation is the short grass beneath our feet; it's clear that it's not maintained, and appears that this unusual opening is natural, not the creation of people.

Between Reality and Imagination

Transylvania generally is a area which fuels fantasy, where the line is blurred between reality and legend. In countryside villages superstition remains in strigoi ("screamers") – otherworldly, shapeshifting bloodsuckers, who emerge from tombs to haunt local communities.

The novelist's well-known vampire Count Dracula is always connected with Transylvania, and the historic stronghold – a medieval building situated on a cliff edge in the Transylvanian Alps – is heavily promoted as "Dracula's Castle".

But even legend-filled Transylvania – truly, "the land past the woods" – seems solid and predictable in contrast to this spooky forest, which give the impression of being, for causes related to radiation, environmental or entirely legendary, a center for fantasy projection.

"Within this forest," the guide says, "the division between truth and fantasy is very thin."